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Increase or increase Abundance Herbs Herbs

What gardener, gardener or for that matter, does not love the grass in one way or another? Herbs enliven and add new dimensions to otherwise mild dishes of our cuisine or tickle their nose with pleasant scents in potpourri and toiletries. Herbs also help keep us healthy or make us feel better when we are sick as commercially prepared medications or home remedies or maybe just add visual interest to the floral arrangements.

The world of herbs which are or have been used by man for his benefit is covered by literally thousands of members of the plant world. However, most gardeners do not venture beyond a handful of founding herbs, used mainly for cooking in their gardening efforts. This is unfortunate because in the world of herbs as a whole might spend ample time and pleasant. For those wishing to stay within the boundaries of culinary herbs, spectrum of unique flavors and qualities can be endless.

Along with the culinary uses, there are herbs for aroma, dies, insect control, cosmetics and many more. If these reasons are not sufficient to alter its interest in testing new varieties of herbs, consider the following:

• Collection of herbs can be an enjoyable pass time

• Enter the producer to many new and unique flavors, aromas and uses

• It provides valuable knowledge about the new facilities

• You can add visual interest to the garden and landscape

• Collection of herbs is a pass time that can take more than a lifetime to explore

There are few gardeners who either are unable or unwilling to have grown by least some herbs. Unfortunately, the results of the time for many gardeners who have tried their hand at herbs have been that they were less than expected. This is unfortunate because most of the herbs in general, and especially the most cultivated, are less demanding than most other crops that can grow with regularity.

The following information is not all inclusive and there is an article or a series of articles that can cover the whole world of herbs. It is perhaps regrettable, but much the success of using herbs grown and is based on experience. Experience will be gained by entering and treat many different herbs. Will have successes and, yes, there will be disappointment, but even these can be valuable.

1) Start with an understanding of all about the quality of the grass that is trying extract. By this we mean that a particular taste for seasoning? And this is a taste of the leaves, seeds, bark or flower. Is it a flavor or quality of drugs? Each of these may require a slightly different approach to how to increase the grass.

While the medicinal qualities of herbs is not an issue here it is prudent to offer this warning:

Caution: herbs can and offer a wealth of skills to improve our health, cure diseases, ease suffering and generally improve our quality of life. Herbs have few or no negative effect, and are generally safe when used correctly, but each individual may react differently to a particular herb. However, as with anything else, all herbs are safe and / or appropriate for medicinal use in a given situation, either internally or externally. In addition, many herbs interact with commercially prepared medications, often in adversely. Never use herbs for medicinal purposes, without first consulting a trained professional or medical practitioner.

Some of the herbs grown as the thyme, oregano, sage, rosemary, lavender leaves () and the family of mint oils are based on that develop inside the plant called essential oils. These are concentrated and therefore much stronger with smaller amounts of water and fertilizer. Because the oil is cooled to less volatile under normal conditions, these herbs are good candidates for drying for winter. Other common herbs such as basil, coriander, fennel, parsley, chives, dill (leaves), tarragon, and others have their flavors concentrated in water-borne plant juices. This fact makes the grass to lose flavor quickly and therefore more suitable for fresh use and usually have relatively short shelf life when dry.

Finally, many plants have a dual function of herbs or vegetables and spices. For him, the difference between an herb and a spice that is present:

• If the main part used is vegetative, such as leaves or flowers, and for me is an herb.

• If the main part used is the seeds, bark, sap or root, is a spice for me.

Of course there are exceptions to both and therefore the reason why there is no consensus regarding a clear definition between an herb and spices. But anyway, if desired the principal part is the dried seed, bark and / or mother may be a small difference in the way of cultivating these. Examples of such 'dual role' would herbs cilantro (coriander seed), fennel, carrot, celery, dill, dill and mustard. All these things have to be considered when starting your herb garden.

2) Plan your garden Herb and before making a commitment. For the most part, the herbs will need different growing conditions of your garden in general. With herbs, it's flavor, aroma or other qualities than fruit that look and often these qualities can only be pushed to its maximum, providing the specific conditions that may not be suitable for your garden in general.

Consider building raised beds or large containers for most of their herbs. Raised beds or containers to offer the best way of controlling land, fertilizer and moisture. Raised beds also allow the gardener the opportunity to combine the herbs that have similar growing conditions containers allow the gardener to double the use of herbs as an embellishment on a patio, deck or porch. Containers also allow the culinary gardener take advantage of the grass to cool indoor use during winter.

Location, location, location is paramount, more commonly used herbs. Beyond collecting herbs for drying, most use fresh herbs is "heat of the moment". By this I will say no until you need an herb that will have to pick up a few sprigs for cooking a dish, or possibly a medical need arises from nothing. Most times it is not until a cook has a need for a particular herb that grass is harvested and when a dish is being prepared is not a good time to have to run a garden at some distance from the house.

Exposure is another factor to consider. Most of the herbs growing need at least 12 to 14 hours of daily sunlight for good performance. Although many herbs will tolerate some shade, the flavors can fully develop with less than full sun. Another factor is the drainage. Most herbs grow not tolerate poorly drained soils. To them, you must:

• Increase drainage by removing the topsoil and subsoil loosening, adding organic matter and maybe a little sand or gravel (dirt road cut into the gravel) and replacement of topsoil. modification of the topsoil with compost or other organic matter. The final acreage must be at least 12 to 14 inches deep.

• The construction of raised beds, loosen the underlying soil and adding organic matter, then fill the bed with soil that has been amended with organic matter.

• The growth of your herbs in containers.

3) Make a commitment to your herbs. For the most part, grasses require little attention. But the care they need must be met at the time or a full year of work will be lost. Good examples of this are basil and cilantro. When it comes to basil, flowers usually treated earlier this year and the flowers usually appear almost overnight. Once flowering begins, the flavor of the leaves would quickly deteriorate and the plant will be lost for cooking. However, flowering plants make a great food source for bees and other pollinators, so they can grow some extras for them.

Cilantro is very similar, except that normally only can pinch back so long and then go to seed no matter what. This item will normally be evidenced by a marked decrease in the flavor of the leaves when they decide it's time to flower. In this time, remove the plant or leave the seeds and coriander seeds usually after the harvest of mature seed.

4) Group of herbs according to the growing conditions they prefer. This is not a factor with container grown herbs, but if you grow and the use of many herbs that grow no doubt many on raised beds or at least planted beds of herbs. Raised beds are a great way to grow most herbs and can be built for little or no in any material that is useful or appropriate. For most gardeners, two or more beds will be needed. One of the herbs such as thyme, sage, rosemary, etc., which are maintained and thinner hair and one for herbs like basil, cilantro, parsley, chives, etc., which are kept moist and have regular applications of fertilizer.

5) Consider alternative uses for their herbs which are not for cooking. Many herbs, especially those in the "family of the Umbelliferae" are especially beneficial as food and breeding source for many butterflies, wasps and other beneficial insect predators. This group of herbs including cumin, parsley, the carrot / cilantro, dill, fennel, caraway, coriander, parsnip, celery, Queen Anne's lace and other relatives.

As the butterflies are a part integral of interest to many gardeners, consider planting both extra bed or a whole second may be a mixture of many different herbs for them. The first group of herbs should be kept to yourself with insecticidal soap spray to discourage insects and insecticides as "Pyola ®", pyrethrum, Bt or other controls biological, while the latter is left alone for the caterpillars.

Consider planting some species of culinary herbs in this bed too. Herbs such as the street that serves as food and nursery plants to swallowtail butterflies and members of the "Asclepia" (milkweed) family are the sources primaries of both food and shelter for breeding insects such as monarch butterflies and a wide range of beneficial insects. A final note on the milkweed is not only not provide food, shelter and breeding of insects, but also provide a great source of material for "natural" Christmas decorations and supplies floral decoration with dried pods.

6) Once you have considered all the above and have beds and / or container planting, care must of your herb garden for maximum harvest. As stated earlier, most herbs do not require a great deal of care or a high grade fertilizer. Without But this does not mean you need any. This care begins in the spring when new growth begins to perennial or biennial herbs, or at the time of sowing of annual plants. Start with a fresh application of compost or well-rotted manure. For perennial herbs such as thyme, sage, rosemary and other aromatic plants, add compost fresh around each plant and mix gently on the ground like a dress out when new growth begins. For annual herbs, add compost or rotted manure and dig into the soil before planting.

In general, this is suitable for most herbs, especially aromatic. For all the herbs, you should start with a soil analysis and fertilization or only add individual items to keep the soil well balanced. Too much fertilizer, especially nitrogen should be avoided as Otherwise you can end up with a lush growth and a decline in taste and aroma. For perennial weeds that have grown in the same location for some time or areas New planting, proper weed growth can be achieved with 1 / 4 to 1 / 2 nitrogen is recommended for vegetables in your area. Sequential harvests herbs be provided by annual fertilizer applications after each harvest light heavy. These fertilizers are commonly used as slow-release types to avoid excessive absorption at any time. Soil pH should be in the range of 6.5 to 7.0 for the best herbs.

A mulch such as straw, shredded leaves, etc should apply to herbs to help control moisture and suppress weeds. Mulch is essential for most aromatic compounds as the roots tend to be fairly shallow and easily damaged by cultivation.

7) The pest insects and diseases are not usually a problem with herbs, because to the high concentration of oils, which tend to reject most of the insects. Occasionally, aphids and spider mites can be a problem. Aphids tend to be more prevalent in crowded conditions in a fast and succulent growth is taking place. Mites thrive in periods of hot, dry weather. Both are easily controlled by a powerful blast of water from a garden hose. Should it be necessary to go beyond this, a good quality of insecticidal soap usually sufficient.

Annual herbs can be another problem as very aromatic oils are not present at the same levels and caterpillars and other chewing insects can be a problem. For these, you may need to use a regular schedule of spraying with insecticidal soap or hand picking the caterpillars.

Sometimes, diseases caused by fungi that invade their herbs. These are generally best controlled by good sanitation practices.

• Remove all weak, damaged or infected plant parts.

• Keep plant debris and autumn leaves cleaned and removed.

• Provide good air circulation.

• Never handle the plant when wet.

• Water early so the foliage has a chance to dry before nightfall.

• Avoid wetting foliage if possible.

• Wash hands and change clothing after handling diseased plants.

• Disinfect pruners or other tools after touching each plant.

• If necessary, use a fungicide labeled for use on vegetables. Try one of the fungicides homemade herein.

Unless you are growing herbs simply by the ornamental value of herbs harvest for later use is normally the main objective of all growing collection of herbs and plants for cooking is the most used form of herbs growing in the today. The stage of growth as well as the means by which an herb is harvested and stored could mean the difference between a tasty addition to your kitchen or a vegetable "by filling "with little taste or terrible.

Herbs have a particular point in its growth cycle when the essential oils and other elements are in full swing. The part of the plant being harvested, if the leaves, flowers, stems or roots will also make a difference when you harvest the grass. Unfortunately, no a single article can provide instruction in all available herbs and cultivated by gardeners and some experience is necessary

For many, especially aromatic, this is like the grass is about to bloom. For some of these, such as thyme, the flavors will be maintained during flowering, but may decrease after flowering and the plant starts to produce seeds. For others, like basil, coriander, fennel, parsley and others, the establishment of flowers cause the flavors to deteriorate.

If you mulch your grass properly, will be relatively clean to begin with. However, there have been growing outdoors, so have met at least a bit of dust that have to be washed. Also, if you have the aerosols used in the herbs, either organic or no, any remaining residue will be removed. Use an adjustable nozzle which can be adjusted to a fine spray and wash both the top of the bottom of the leaves. This not only dislodges the dirt and debris from spray, but also the "creatures" that may be remaining. Allow plants to dry overnight, or if washed after harvest, will have Pat dry on a towel or paper towels before starting the drying process.

Here are some general instructions for harvest the leaves, flowers, roots and seeds:

• Leaves and flowers.
  These should be cut in the morning, shortly after the dew has dried on the plant. Make your harvest in a dry and sunny day that was preceded by at least two days of sunshine and dry for the maximum concentration oils. Cut the stems of flowers when the buds are beginning to open. An exception to this is mind, developing their highest concentrations of oil, when spikes of flowers are in full bloom.

  If the harvest is to large quantities of herbs, use a mesh or open weave basket to allow circulation air. Never stuff your herbs in buckets or plastic bags. Harvest only what you can conveniently process and dry at the same time. You can reduce most of the plants perennial to about half. Most annuals can be reduced to a few centimeters. If you are near the end of the season, consider pulling annual completely.

  For drying, a variety of options available to the gardener. Today, any dark, well ventilated area where temperatures run between F 70 90 degrees can be used and the beams of an open garage, shed or even a ventilated attic. You can use the screen cover frames (window screens work well) on the cheese cloth was applied (do not place your herbs directly on the screen), a hot oven (if you can set low enough to the door ajar) or specially designed dehydrators whenever they have good control of temperature. Some people even claim to have good results using a microwave oven. However, I am skeptical of using a microwave oven because of the way it heats the objects and the potential to damage the plants at the cellular level.

  Some herbs are better than the leaves stripped from stems before drying and placed in a single layer on raging. These include: basil, lemon balm, dill, lovage, mint, sage, lemongrass and tarragon. Herbs that have small leaves can be dried to the left on their stems. These include: thyme, summer and winter savory, oregano, rosemary and marjoram. The leaves are removed after dry well for storage. Herbs in this category are traditionally tied in small bunches and hung to dry. However, they can be placed in a single layer on raging just as well. The advantage to hang the herbs in bunches is released by the algae space for other herbs.

  Given the right conditions, leaves of grass and flowers should be dry in three or four days. I n the case of cold and / or wet weather may be necessary to spread your herbs on a cookie sheet and finish them in a warm oven to 115-125 degrees for several minutes. To accomplish this, you may need to use a thermometer and adjust the door open. Do not exceed 125-130 degrees F. or herbs that can be damaged and turn your pot or pan around frequently to ensure even drying. Shop Once dry, airtight containers in a dry, cool and dark.

  If you are using a commercial dehydrator / dryer, no Do not trust the factory settings as they are often wrong and temperatures will actually occur or high or low. Choose a dryer that has an adjustable thermostat and then check the actual air temperature using a thermometer and adjust the heat accordingly.

  These instructions are for the herbs can be dried herbs, but many do not dry well and are better frozen. These herbs are basil, dill, cilantro and chives. To freeze herbs, begins as with other herbs for cleaning and drying of leaves. Immerse leaves in boiling water without salt for 30 to 50 seconds or until they begin to be soft. Immediately remove the leaves and plunge them into ice water to stop the cooking process. It is a process called "bleaching".

  Remove the leaves to paper towels or a towel and roll it to remove excess water. Then removed and coarsely cut leaves (can be cut thinner than later if the dish calls for finely chopped leaves). Place about a tablespoon of leaf piles in each cell of an ice cube tray and place in freezer to freeze overnight. After removing the freeze on the grass, where labeled freezer bags and store in freezer up to three months.

Some sources say the dill, chives and basil is not necessary bleaching. Blanch prefer all of my non-salted herbs, but you must experience for yourself to determine which method works best for you and that you prefer.

• Roots
  Some herbs you can try, as angels and privet produce roots that are often used. Dig these roots in the fall after that the growth is extinct or very early spring before new growth begins. A thoroughly wash the roots and cut or divide the large roots for faster drying. To dry, the roots can be placed on screens covered with gauze and placed in a warm place, such as an attic to dry. To expedite drying can be placed in these individual layers in a food dehydrator or commercial dryer to 120-125 degrees F turning several times each week. It may be necessary to end the roots out in a hot oven, if they do not dry enough in the dryer. It may take up to six to eight weeks to properly dry a few roots. Perform periodic testing for dry roots. They should supplement where rubber blends with any consistency. Once dry, store the roots in an airtight container in a cool, dark place.

• Seeds
  Coriander, dill, fennel, cumin, anise and celery are easy to grown at home. When plants begin to mature and turn yellow, but before the seed is fully mature and starts to drop, cut seed heads that leaves one a few inches of stem. Trim very short stems and place in drying raging for five to six days, or until the seed head can fall easily. Remove the straw (called winnowing), and then spread sheets drying for a week, stirring frequently to prevent mold. Store seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dark place after they are completely dry.

9) Many herbs can be grown successfully inside in winter, however the rate of growth will be slower and normally these should be used fresh. Herbs that grow inside require basically the same every time most outdoor conditions. Should be placed in a sunny window or west to the south in containers filled with well-drained potting soil. For most gardeners, I would strongly suggest the incorporation of supplemental grow lights, and because of the decrease in the intensity of light in winter. If a sunny window is not available, Most herbs do well indoors usually can be grown successfully under lights growing fresh herbs throughout the winter.

Good drainage is vital for herbs, either indoors or out. Never allow your grass to sit in saucers of water. Water to the point where the water starts running out the bottom of the container, allow drainage of excess water from the container and then empty the excess water from the plate. Allow the container to dry moderately between waterings.

New crops annual grass seed in late summer for growing indoors in spring and discard. Perennial herbs can be raised in containers that move inside during winter or dug in the autumn and potted for winter fresh herbs. Perennial herbs are best off if they go outdoors in the spring when the climate has warmed. A light frost on herbs such as chives, mint, tarragon, and not damage the grass. Keep all your potted plants in a place that's to receive some protection from the intense heat and winds.

While inside, fertilize your herbs with a good quality houseplant fertilizer in a room or strong enough to maintain healthy growth. Keep your herbs pinched back to keep a nice shape and appearance and the constant use to maintain the new about growth.

10) Many herbaceous perennials are perfectly grown outdoors all year round, but others, including some that are not known to be hardy in your area need special attention when the cool weather of autumn appears. If only one zone or two away from the producing region of herbs prefer, you can opt for the care of choosing a "microclimate" in your landscape where grass can find the hottest area of growth.

Normally, you want to look for areas along the south side (northern hemisphere) of the buildings, walls, fences or dense bush south side, so these areas tend to be warmer throughout the year and, in particular the winter. By planting microclimates marginal plants, together with the payment of winter, it is possible to grow many herbs that would otherwise not be able to grow. For herbs grown directly on the ground, a covering of leaves or straw applied after the ground freezes (for gardeners further north) is usually all that is necessary to protect the grass during winter. The reason for applying the fertilizer after the soil freezes, is not to prevent the soil from freezing, but rather to keep frozen. Repetitive freezing and thawing of soil exhale (eject) many herbs of the earth. Mulch insulates the soil and helps prevent rough.

In areas where the soil is not always frozen or freeze very superficially, mulch in early fall, not to keep the ground frozen so to speak, but instead stabilize the soil and allow it to heat and cool slowly. If frozen, mulch is kept frozen. If it freezes, is maintained hot enough so the roots are growing. Each area is different, but litter is always a good idea if sooner or later in the fall.

Container Perennial herbs grown are different situation. The root system is in a relatively small area that is susceptible to temperature changes. These are normally quickly frozen in cold weather, but will melt as quickly. In addition, the containers are susceptible to cracking in freezing winters. There are a couple ways to approach the care of these herbs reliably. After the first hard frost:

1. Keep containers in a protected area but without heating, as an unheated garage, or shed. If the house usually gets very cold, then warm in the interior during the day, you must adjust containers with old blankets or insulation (use of insulation wrapped) to keep them frozen.

2. Group the pots together inside an enclosure keeping the lids of pots relatively the same height (this makes it easier to find individual pots below). Ideally, the enclosure shall be in a protected area that is protected from winter winds. The enclosure can be as simple as chicken wire which is about six inches taller than its high on pot or a cold frame or similar enclosure. The area of the pots about 4 to 6 inches apart to allow the addition of insulation and keep the compost later entire group no more than 3 or 4 feet wide (or narrower if you are working on one side) so you can get to each pot later. Place some type of participation or flag in each pot to make it easier to find each of them later.

3. Surround and cover these with either straw or a mixture ground straw and leaves. Avoid left alone because they tend to pack and be swamped.

During winter, the grass may be dormant, but There is still activity in the roots. Therefore, shall be reviewed periodically pots and water sparingly during the winter when the weather moderates. Do not soak the ground because they dry very slowly in cold weather, which could cause root rot. Keep the soil slightly moist, water only when soil is dry an inch down.

When the weather warms up in spring, begin to see signs of renewed growth. Eliminate Most of the stubble that covered pots (only the top) and all of the higher stubble as soon as new growth begins. If stored inside or outside, Remove the herbs to a protected location, but sunny, as soon as new green growth appears and begin watering normally. After new growth has begun seriously, give your herbs a light meal of slow-release fertilizers. These applications apply equally to both the grasses that grow in soil.

About the Author

The Hillbilly Gardener was born Lyndell G. Miller and can be found at
http://www.jerrysplantsonline.com/about_us.htm where he resides as the driving force and inspiration for all things gardening and outdoor living. There are few things about gardening that he hasn’t tried and after spending almost 50 years with his hands in the soil, he gets some of his greatest pleasures from helping others learn the joys of gardening and learning how to do more with less.

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